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Ono kine grindz4/30/2023 ![]() It's as though without rice you couldn't eat. It's the stuff everyday people eat every day. A bits-and-pieces cuisine, "local food" is the culinary equivalent of pidgin. It holds "hurricane popcorn," where butter is bumped for seaweed confetti and rice crackers oxtail soup smoky, greasy, kalua pig and other items known simply as "local" food. It's filled with dishes like Spam musubi - basically a giant piece of sushi, but with canned luncheon meat instead of fish - and a snack-time soup of Japanese broth and Chinese noodles called saimin. And over the decades, they shared their families, marrying to produce the most ethnically diverse state in the country, and perhaps its only real melting pot.Īnd that pot got carried into the kitchen. They shared their lunches - their noodles, their curries. In the fields, they connected their unfamiliar words with bits of English to create an enduring pidgin. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, waves of Chinese, Japanese, Koreans, Filipinos and Portuguese arrived to work the sugar cane and pineapple plantations. Honolulu was my home until five years ago, and I always found the "ethnic" aisle - where taco shells and pasta had also been exiled - the clearest expression of Hawaii's culture. ![]() Midday is prime time for local food, when lunch wagons line up by office towers to dispense Styrofoam containers of 'plate lunch': heaping masses of Korean barbecued ribs, beef stew or teriyaki mackerel alongside mayonnaise-engulfed macaroni salad. ![]()
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